The Importance of not being earnest

By Film Noir Buff

Clothing for work and for play.

Glorious twelfth:

Glorious Twelfth is a pleasure to wear. Light on the shoulders and yet sturdily constructed. It can be a bit warm and is more appropriate for Fall/Winter to midway through Spring.

The color palette used in the Glorious Twelfth range is amazing. This fabric has a very matte finish with a wee bit of sparkle from the fully spun yarns used; which gives the fabric both life and loft.

On the gentility meter, I would give this a ten out of ten. The wearer will not want to remove their jacket.

Chosen here, a blue with red and wine check to use at work on casual days; even with jeans. If you wear a lot of shirts with pink and red in them, this particular fabric gives an opportunity to have fun with those colors.

Placed here with a Paris Custom shirt made from Acorn Fabric’s Grange fabrics but it could be equally at home with either a turtle neck sweater or a polo shirt.

Glorious Twelfth fabric will coordinate well with corduroys, flannels, wool (or cotton) gabardine trousers and jeans. Paired here with light grey flannel trousers. Smith and Co. make this beautiful 9oz flannel in four shades of grey which have that refined flannel look but are mercifully cool for those who must endure the inferno that is central heating.

It would be possible to make a suit out of this fabric for those who want an unusual, Edwardian look but the pants may neither last long nor breathe well.

In the Glorious Twelfth range, there are a wide variety of shades and patterns available in brown, green, grey and navy. Hopefully the next release of this range will see more city choices in blues and greys. Glorious twelfth is equally at home in the city, suburbs or the country.

Glorious twelfth is a versatile fabric. It works both for a casual day at the office, and just about any other day-time recreation where a jacket feels right. This one is worn to all day corporate outings, and both old boy and hip bars/restaurants in NYC. It looks great with a tie or bow tie and even the occasional cravat.

This lime green neck tie is from the very English furnishings house, Van Buck and the cufflinks are by the evil genius, Chris Parry.

The belt is by Equus leather and combines manly construction with enough refinement to wear with either a suit or a jacket.


Harrisons Sunbeam is a very open weave, more appropriate for spring and summer or whenever or wherever it is warm. It would be a perfect jacket for use in the tropics. Despite its porous weave, the fabric is very strongly woven. Its twenty percent silk content provides additional strength and a hint of sparkle that makes it exciting for wear casually without making it inappropriate for an office situation.

Harrisons have produced another winner and this cloth is and will continue to be popular. In 2012, a second series of Sunbeam will be released which will include some bright new colours – Lilac,bright pink,light blues & a bottle green.

Sunbeam works with tropical worsted wool, mohair (and mohair blend), cotton gabardine, light weight denim jeans, linen and linen blend trousers.

This striped version is a contemporary look taken to its logical conclusion. What started out as orphaned suit jackets rescued from thrift shops and worn with jeans or khakis is now available as specialty cloths. These specialty cloths look like suit stripes from a distance but upon closer inspection are not. A dandy interpretation of a bohemian creation.

Placed here with another Paris Custom shirt from Acorn’s Grange DU Blue fabric and a spotted tie from Van Buck. Van Buck ties are assembled from excellent ingredients and make a proper English knot.

A vanity lining done up by Harrisons of Edinburgh for yours truly. Cufflinks hand enameled by MP Levene of London. Jeans by Nino Corvato made from denim sourced at Premium Denim Outlet in Los Angeles.

The belt is from Equus Leather in a midnight blue colour. The leopard buckle is by Patrick Mavros of London. Both Equus Leather and Patrick Mavros worked together seamlessly to have this buckle fitted to my specifications and were gracious about my request throughout the entire process.

Sunbeam cloth is a testament that Harrisons of Edinburgh are expert at making strides in fabric designs, colors and patterns that still guarantee that the wearer, no matter how flamboyant their choice, will possess a confident level of dignity.

Master tailor Nino Corvato in New York City made these jackets and he is a great admirer of both Sunbeam and Glorious Twelfth fabrics, recommending them to his customers for tasteful, durable clothing. For a conservative person like Mr. Corvato, that is a rave.

Bespoke shoes by the incomparable Gaziano and Girling, UK.

Espresso brown calf Adelaides are smart both for a suit and for an odd jacket. This is a shoe color the English love because it is confused for black at first glance. Purposefully photographed under burgundy wool to make them look more brown; against the pavement they are much blacker.

The pebble grained Kudu (some sort of antelope-like creature) lace ups are soft and comfortable, perfect with anything from jeans and a leather jacket to flannels and a navy blazer.

Paris Custom Shirtmakers Inc
38 W 32nd St # 603, New York, NY 10001-3884

Nino Corvato Designer Inc
420 Madison Avenue # 406
New York, NY 10017-1176

  1. — Gerard    Jan 1, 21:56    #

    Perfect top to bottom. Love the Kudu bluchers and that suit lining is the bomb. I may have to copy the theme.

    Go Giants!

  2. — Jan Libourel    Jan 3, 17:09    #

    Hey, Buff. I have a jacket made from that very same Glorious Twelfth fabric. Agree with your comments about it.


    Jan “captainpreppy” Libourel

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