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#51 2006-11-18 02:07:55
- Horace
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- Posts: 6432
Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
I like the idea of a black bowtie with a midnight blue coat too.
I don't worry about looking like waitstaff even if I do. A corollary: I've noticed that khaki trou and blue OCBD's are uniforms now for various shops. I get mistaken every so often when I happen to be dressed this way. Though I prefer the white shirt with khaki trousers.
Didn't it used to be that in some circles for instance the servants or waitstaff were dressed one notch above the guests? For example, white tie for waiters and black tie for patrons or the family sitting down to dinner?
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#52 2006-11-18 05:15:56
- Terry Lean
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
#53 2006-11-18 09:27:59
- Film Noir Buff
- Dandy Nightmare
- From: Devil's Island
- Posts: 9341
Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
#54 2006-11-18 18:44:32
- Horace
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#55 2006-11-18 18:47:34
- Horace
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#56 2006-11-18 20:35:40
- Film Noir Buff
- Dandy Nightmare
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
#57 2006-11-20 02:50:27
- Horace
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#58 2006-11-25 06:52:06
- Film Noir Buff
- Dandy Nightmare
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
#59 2006-11-26 14:12:24
- Coolidge
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
FNB's points about the tuxedo are why I have stuck with the shawl, since I have never seen a waiter wearing one.
But if the classic tuxedo should eventually mean waiter just as a Navy dress uniform means, well, Navy, then I could see myself trying out a Scottish tartan...if they make one for the particular Scottish name from which I can honestly claim descent. If not, then maybe the navy. Or at least a more wild bowtie and cummerbund setup. As Horace, I could be persuaded to go madras as well. Hmmm. Definitely something to think about. But I am not changing yet.
#60 2006-11-26 17:05:50
- Horace
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#61 2006-11-26 21:00:24
- Coolidge
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
Last edited by Coolidge (2006-11-26 21:03:36)
#62 2006-11-27 08:55:44
- Twin Six
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- From: WASP in Tokyo
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
I've followed this thread with great interest and have learned a lot.
My limited experience of black-tie events is that they can often contain numerous hidden dramas that can tax your composure. You have to be dressed for all contingencies, which means looking and feeling your best and, most importantly, having those distinctive elements, peceptible only to the discerning few, that set you out from the crowd.
I'd probably favor midnight blue with black satin shawl lapel, lined in pale pink silk.
If black, I would prefer a peak lapel in black grosgrain, lined in burnt orange reminiscent of the Parker Duofold.
I would chose calf opera pumps over patent, and am fond of the Moreschis, though not married to them. Were I to go with bespoke opera pumps, Aubercy springs to mind because I associate them with the delicacy of the catlike tread with which I imagine stealing into some boudoir later in the evening. My favorite evening shoes are a pair of Santoni silk houndstooth pumps picked up at a Shoemart sale for under $100. Their useful life was short, since when they creased, the resulting tears in the silk were somewhat conspicuous (at least to me).
As for the backless vest in lieu of the cummerbund, I'm all for it and the waist suppression I imagine it implies. Being tall and thin with narrow shoulders and an even narrower waist, the idea of evening everything out to achieve all the charm of a length of PVC pipe doesn't appeal to me. After all, does the cummerbund serve any function other than to add girth to one's middle? -- I mean besides catching crumbs.
#63 2006-11-27 10:37:00
- Film Noir Buff
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
#65 2006-12-04 19:10:36
- tom22
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- Posts: 295
Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
Going back to the original post, I have a Press tuxedo, Bought in New Haven , not from Mr. Wilder in NYC. I like it a lot. Made on a half canvas. Shawl collar, I believe the manager of the New Haven store mentioned he thought this is the most elegant look. I can't define it, but it has a luxe feel. Flap pockets, but the kind that fold into the pocket, center vent, I suppose you could fix it if you care. (Made in America and with a Union label, and I actually still care about that) For me, if it's from Press, it will be as good if not better than custom made. Thinking about it, I've had it for four years and it only appears at this time of year (usually) at events held at the New Haven Lawn Club. Old school I guess or (I love this phrase) the school they tore down when they built the old school.
#66 2006-12-05 13:07:04
- Terry Lean
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
A perfect post, tom22. Thank you.
I've had a few MTMs & one bespoke over here in England but I've never been as happy with them as I have been with good quality American RTW for the Ivy style.
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
#67 2006-12-07 04:19:23
- Horace
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#68 2006-12-07 04:30:57
- Horace
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#69 2006-12-07 09:49:49
- Film Noir Buff
- Dandy Nightmare
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
#70 2006-12-07 11:54:52
- Terry Lean
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
Big difference & the only one that counts.
(IMVHO).
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
#72 2006-12-08 03:02:23
- Horace
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
Last edited by Horace (2006-12-08 03:03:46)
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#73 2006-12-08 03:03:28
- Horace
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- Posts: 6432
Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#75 2006-12-10 14:49:20
- Terry Lean
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Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket
Since the loss of all the wise old heads from the other place we are now the elders of the Trad I would hazzard.
So to be Trad they must all now bow to us, surely?
I'll check the rules with AHAT...
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"