Two weeks has passed since my last visit to Ginza Tailor. I returned today for another fitting with the suit in completed form. Mr. Hirata and I decided it needed a few more tweaks. The chest was made a bit full, and so will be taken in where it tends to bunch up on the sides. We also decided to shorten the sleeves just a hair to show about a quarter inch of shirt cuff with my arms by my sides.

I ordered four shirts; white, and pink with white collar, both French cuff exactly like my previous one, no contrast stitching on the white; and two OCBDs, one in blue and one in pink. I wore an old, frayed pink OCBD passed down from my grandfather that was probably made in the mid-70s, and we modeled my oxford order on it. (The label gives me a bit of a chuckle as representative of depression-generation WASP-trad thrift: Van Heusen 417 Single-needle Tailoring, Made in Costa Rica.")

I also looked at swatches for a navy blazer and grey trousers. In Tokyo, you really have to plan around the sweltering, humid summers rather than the relatively mild winters, so the lighter weight fabrics are preferable.

David Hober was gracious enough to send me some swatches of his shot silk fabrics, and I took the test swatch he sent to inquire about possible jacket linings. I was told that, of course, they can work with it, but it is not very practical because it will tend to cause friction against the shirt fabric, and in the winter, generate static. This would not necessarily prevent me from ordering something with a silk lining if the combination were aesthetically irresistible, but it would at least give me pause, particularly with lighter weight fabrics that might get pulled out of shape with friction or static. If anyone has any comments on this, don't hold back.

I realize that a few people are quite interested in the oxford button-down configuration, so I'll be posting pictures further down the road. The classic Brooks style was mentioned in passing.

Last edited by Twin Six (2007-06-23 21:13:43)

Because it's Trad! 

That shade of pink is spot on...as they say.

Just thought I'd mention for anyone who's interested that Part 2 of my Ginza Tailor article has just been published on the front page. This time there are lots of pretty pictures.

As a bonus, you get to see just whose Bastard I am!

Good article.  I like the touch about the dry cleaner as tailor and the too short suit sleeve and french cuff predicament. Something that has happened to me, I'm afraid.  Also those little details like the monogram and the particular lining/pocket flap are great.  You get the sense that these guys are all completely willing to make something perfect for you.  I may be a bastard, but I'm often as not a cheap bastard.  Pretty much sticking to one shop for my suits.  And yet, call me foolish, but on the basis of your articles alone, I'd be willing to try these guys out.